Project Jukebox

Digital Branch of the University of Alaska Fairbanks Oral History Program

Jim Donini

Jim Donini Jim is a legendary big wall, technical climber especially renowned for his first ascents in Patagonia. Jim shares his climbing philosophy and technique, providing great descriptions of climbs in Alaska such as the Diamond Arete and Northeast Spur on Mt. Hunter, the Cobra Pillar on Mt. Barrille, and his recent epic with Malcom Daly on Thunder Mountain. Jim describes the mentality necessary to keep pushing in the face of adversity, and knowing when to turn back. He also explains why he prefers climbing with one partner only, and offers excellent profiles of climbing partners such as Jack Tackle, Malcom Daly, Greg Crouch, and John Bragg. Jim reflects on the ways that improving climbing and rescue technology can paradoxically lead to greater peril because of a false sense of security among mountaineers. He also talks about his project to climb and document the "seven real summits:" the most difficult peak to summit on each continent.
Jim Donini appears in the following new Jukebox projects: